04 September 2010

Thirukutralam to Madurai

Started off a busy day from Kutralam at 6am. Covered Srivilliputhur, Thiruthankal, Alavai, and Thiruparankundram.

Srivilliputhur, with its majestic Gopuram, is place drooling of godliness and palgova. Andal's Thirupavai and Thirumozhi are dripping with Andal's intimate relationship with Krishna. While Jayadeva's Gita Govondam is widely sung even in Tamil Nadu in Radha Kalyanams, would like Thirumozhi to be sung as Godha Kalyanams.

Similarly, Perialwar's verses, treating Krishna as child and cuddling and cajoling him as a mother would lovingly do is so moving.

Vatapatrasayee is not what the name says. You expect a Balakrishnan as a child lying in Banyab leaf, He is large frames and lying on Adiseshan. He is colourfully made of lime and not a granite vigraha.

Thiruthankal is near Sivakasi. The temple has benefitted from the wealthy businessmen of Sivakasi. Perumal is colourfully made and not from granite.

Thiruvanparisaram, Thiruvattaru & Thirukutralam

Thiruvanparisaram is very close to Nagarkovil. This is a Malai Nattu Divya Desam. Temple is a mixture of Kerala and Tamil Nadu style architecure. Malayala priests perform Poojai. Thiru Vazh Marban (The one who has Lakshmi in his heart) is the name of the Lord. Birthpplace of Nammalvar's mother. Also considered Nammalvar's birthplace. Nammalvar has sung a pasuram. We started from Nagarkovil around 7am, had darisanam and were back at Nagarkovil by 8. Temple is in a serene setting with a pleasant brimmming temple tank Photos.

Then, we drove to Thiruvattaru. This temple is Kerala style in architecture and worship. Believed to be a smallish replica of Thiruvananthapuram temple.Adi Kesava Perumal also resembles Anantha Padmanabha Swamy -  Kidanda Kolam and large size. The temple is calm, clean. We were not allowed to take photos inside the temple.

From Nagar Kovil, we started about 2pm and reached Thiru Kutralam via Thirunelveli about 5pm.

Kurum Pala Nathar temple is next to the main falls. Swamy is named after sthala vruksham, jackfruit tree. The temple is associated with Agasthiyar. Legend is that as the whole world assembled to watch Siva's wedding, Siva sent Agastyar to the South to prevent the world from tilting and tipping over. Also believed to have originated Tamil. Another story is that Agastyar converted the erstwhile Vishnu temple into Siva temple.

Thiru Kutralam is the Chitra Sabhai sthalam, Nataraja is in pictorial form, not a vigraham. You need to climb about 50 steps amidst shops and chaos to reach the Chitra Sabhai, which deserted. In the guise of protecting precious heritage, there is quirky plastic roof.  Sambandar has sung two padhigams. Padhigams are on two sthalams  - Kutralam and Kurum Pala, both assumed to be Kutralam. Also sung by Manikka Vachakar - Uttrarai Yaan Venden is a well known verse, where he renounces family, fame but just desires the Lord's feet like Cow loves her calf.

The town is crowded and filthy, teeming with monkeys. Could not find  a decent place to eat or stay.