21 November 2009

Malai Nadu

Last week, we visited Malai Nadu Divya Desams and Padal Petra Sthalam.

Travel Schedule:
Saturday
From Thrissur: 7am,
Thiruvithuvakkodu (Thirumittacode) 8am,
Thirunavay: 9am.
Guruvayoor: 1030am,
Thirumoozhikalam: 6pm,
Thiruvanjaikalam: 730pm

Sunday
Thirukkatkarai: 5am
ThiruSenkundur: 730am (We had seen other Divya Desams around Thiruvalla in 2006)
Thiruvananthapuram: 11am






Omampuliyur, Kanattu Mullur, Thirunaaraiyur, Thirukadambur

Had a darisanam of these temples. They are close to each other, around Kattumannargudi & Anaikarai. This is Ponniyin Selvan territory, around Veeranam.

If you are coming from the west (Neyveli, Kumbakonam), the seuqence is Kadambur, Omampuliyur, Kanattu Mullur and Naaraiyur. If you are coming from east (Chidambaram), sequence is the reverse.

Omampuliyur
Omampuliyur is called (H)Omamampuliyur in Sambandar Thevaram. Also sung by Appar. THis is 15km east of Anaikarai on the nothern bank of Kollidam. Or you can reach from Kattumannargudi, 10km south.Temple is neatly maintained. The huge Dakshinamurthi is in the main sannidhi, between Swamy & Ambal. Photos

Kanattu Mullur
is further deep in with no proper roads. THis is about 5km east of Omampuliyur. Oru kala pujai. Sivacharyar had left for the day when we went at 10am. Sung by Sundarar. Keys are available at nearby house for darisanam. Temple is partly renovated with concrete mandapam etc. Photos

Tirunaaraiyur
Birth place of Nambi Andar Nambi. Pollapillayar is special. Kumbabhishekam has just been performed. Slightly crowded. Appar 1, 2, (Second Padhigam is Thiruthandakam, a verse style started by Appar, he is called Thandaka Chaturar). Sambandar 1, 2, 3. Nambi Andar Nambi has also sung verses on the Lord. Photos

Thirukadambur
Intricately sculpted temple. Precious utsava idols too. Appar (the quote En Kadan Pani Seidhu Kidappadhe is from this padhigam, 2). Sambandar. Photos




Thiru Vijayamangai

Visited Thiru Vijayamangai. There are two versions of where this temple is. One version is south of Kollidam near Adanur & Thiruvaikavur. Another is north of Kollidam. Appar Thevaram states this sthalam is Govindaputtur, which is north of Kollidam. You go west from Anakarai or Jayankondam or south from Ariyalur. Temple is badly in need of renovation.

Thevarams 1, 2

04 October 2009

Piranmalai, Thirupattur, Thirukoshtiyur, Thirumayam, Sithannavasal, Kudumiyanmalai,

We have completed Kongu Nadu, Tondai Nadu and Nadu Nadu. We ventured into Pandi Nadu (as called in PPS) and Pandiya Nadu (as in DD). We visited Kodunkundram (Piranmalai), Thirupattur, Thirukoshtiyur and Thirumayam.

We started from Tiruchi at 6am, took the nice highway to Madurai. After about 70km, took a left turn at Pallapatti. After 7km in this scenic road is Piranmalai (Kodunkundram). Piranmalai is reportedly the place Pari gave his chariot to Mullaikodi. Sung in many place in Sangam (Pattupattu, Ettuthogai). Temple is on the foothills. The temple is at three levels - Kodunkundreesar, the Padal Petra Swamy and Ambal, is at the bottom. You climb a flight of steps, you reach the middle level, & the famous Bhairavar and Kasi Viswanathar sannidhis . Another flight of steps leads to Mangai Bhagar - Swamy & Ambal in Kalyana Kolam (not Linga sswaroopam). Temple is under the Kundrakudi Adheenam. Curiously, there area couple of inscriptions from 1970s eulogising Kalaignar, including his achievement of winning against Aryans.

Sambandar padigam. Photos

Kannan Bhattar 96556 70709

We left Piranlamai at 930 & reached Titupattur at 10 (30km). Temple is under renovation. Swamy was worshipped by Lakshmi & hence Thiruthalinathar, Tirupattur etc. Yoga Bhairavar draws many devotees. Legend is that Nagesh, oops, Darumi was a Sivacharyar in Tiruputtur and the Lord composed Kongu Ther Vazhkai for him to be honoured by the king. temple &
Sambandar, Appar padigams. Photos Temple phone 04577 322486. Piranmalai Kannan Bhattar's uncle is the Gurukkal.


Tirukoshtiyur is about 10km from Tirupattur. The place where Ramanujar broadcast Ashtaksharam for the benefit of mankind. There are four Perumals at four levels - at ground level - Krishnan (Koothadiya kolam), first floor- Sowmyanarayanan (Kidantha kolam), Ninra Perumal at third level & Paramapada Nathan (amarntha kolam) at fourth level). It is from the fourth level of the Ashtanga Vimanam, Ramanujar announced for the world the Ashtaksharam.
Vimanam Glold Plating project is on. London Madhava Bhattacharyar ( 97863 09300) is the chief priest. Commanding & demanding. Apparently, he got the title after visiting London. You cannot see him in his current avatar for a long time as he is going to America and you can only see him as America Madhava Bhattacharyar after this. Not sure if Perumals at 3rd & 4th level are worshipped everyday.

Reached Tirumayam at 1230. The temple is one of the olderst in Tamil Nadu, a Pallava construction. Perumal & Siva temples by the side of Tirumayam fort. Two perumals - Ninra Swamy & a huge Kidantha Perumal.


After lunch at Pudukottai, visited Sithannavasal (Rock cut caves & Paintings) and Kudumiyanmalai, famous for Pallava period Inscription on Music (now UNESCO World Heritage Monument).

Reached Trichy at 630.






20 September 2009

Arakandanallur, Tirukovilur, Tiruvannamalai

We started from Chennai at 430am, took NH 45 to Villupuram, turned right to SH7 and reached Arakandanallur (near Tirukovilur) around 830. We later learnt that Bhagavan Sri Ramana Maharshi also followed the same route to Tiruvannamalai - Arakandanallur, Tirukovilur & Tiruvannamalai. Further back, Sambandar got a darisanam of Tiruvannamalai from Arakandanallur and sang Thevaram on Tiruvannamalai from here.

Araiyaninallur temple, as called in the Thevaram, is built on a rock on the northern bank of Then Pennai. Tirukovilur temples (Padal Petra Sthalam & Divya Desam) are visible across the river. The temple has a huge Raja Gopuram on the southern side. Maintained well by Sri Ramanasramam. Atulyanatheswarar and Soundarya Kanakambikai rule here (Oppillamani Eswarar and Azhakiya Ponnammai). Gurukkal looks after many temples (when Sri Ramanar visited the same Gurukkal performed poojas at Arakandanallur and Tirukovilur (Kizhayur). Kasi Sivacharyar mobile no: 99651 44849. Pl call him before you reach the temple. Odhuvar sang the padigams beautifully in Karaharapriya and Senchurutti. Photos

Tirukovalur Veerattam is one of the eight sthalams Siva killed demons. Here, it was Anthakasuran. This is also the sthalam Avvaiyar sang Vinayakar Akaval and Periya Yanai Vinayakar lifted Avvai in His Thumbikkai and transported her to Kailasam before Sundarar in Vellai Yanai and Seraman Perumal Nayanar in Kudirai. This is also the city ruled by Meiporul Nayanar and the birthplace of Rajaraja Chola. Sivananda Valli and Viratteswarar. Sang by Appar and Sambandar. Photos Babu Sivacharyar 98426 23020, Ramesh Sivacharyar 94862 80030

Tirukovalur Divya Desam is in the centre of west town (Melaiyur). This is the place where Poigai Azwar, Bhoothath Azvar, Pey Azwar saw the Lord and started singing Divya Prabandar, one of two Nadu Nadu Divya Desam. There is huge Rajagopuram. Trivikarama Swamy and Dehaleesar are unimaginably beautiful.

Tiruvannamalai is 35km from Tirukovalur, road is good. Started from Tirukovalur at 10-45, reached Tiruvannamalai at 1130. The site has temple layout, would reccommend taking a print out.

Annamalaiyai ariyaar yaar? Apitakuchamba and Arunachaleswarar (Unnamulai and Annamalai) are showering worshippers with love and affectiion, truly moving experience. Photos. Ramesh Sivacharyar 94432 43225, 04175 223277.







01 August 2009

Nadu Nadu

Last week, we did Vriddhachalam, Erukatham Puliyur, Srimushnam, Koodalaiyatrur, Pennagadam and Tirunelvayil Arathurai.

Started from Chennai at 430am. Had breakfast at Hiway In at Madurantakam. Reached Vriddhachalam at 9. Just as we entered, Ambal was being taken out on procession for Adi Pooram.
Vriddhacalam is where Sundarar got 12,000 gold coins from the Lord, dropped it in Manimutharu and retried it from Kamalalayam in Tiruvarur. He got the quality of gold checked by Matru Uraitha Vinayakar at Vriddhachalam & again at Tiruvarur. This is the sthalam to visit for prosperity.Bala SUndara Moorthi Sivacharyar - Mobile 98650 21498, Telephone 04143 230203

Erukatham Puliyur (called Rajendrapatnam) is 15km from Vriddhachalam, the place of Neelakanta Yazhpanar, the musician - Nanyanar. He travelled along with Sambandar and accompanied Sambandar in Yazh as he sang thevarams. Panns (Ragam) for Tirumurai that are currently in vogue are set by Erukatham Puliyur Padini (litereally the singer of Erukatham Puliyur), a descendant of Yazhpanar. A very imporant sthalam for the musically inclined. Seenu Sivacharyar - Mobile 94440 63806

Srimushnam is a swayam vakta sthalam, the kshetra that came about on its own. There are 8 of them, 4 in the south and 4 in the north. This is where the Lord took Varaha Avataram and destroyed Hiranyakshashan. A powerful temple to overcome enemies. Srimushnam is 7 km from E Puliyur.

Koodalaiyatrur (7km from Srimushnam) is where the Lord directed Sundarar to visit Vridhachalam after visiting Koodalaiyatrur. Swamy is called Neri Kattu Nathar. A visit to this sthalam will clarify your thinking and lead towards the right track. Krithivasa Sivacharyar - Mobile 97867 34652

Pannagadam (Pennadam is 18km from Vriddhachalam) is thw abode of Pralaya Kaaleswarar. This is where after Appar sang his thevaram, the Lord imprinted Rishabha & Soola mudrai on Appar's shoulders. This is the sthalam to visit to get out of immense (Pralaya like) difficuities in life. Janakiraman - Mobile 98656 68826

Tirunelvayil Arathurai is 10km from Pennadam. Sambandar was visiting temples and singing in praise of the Lord as a child. The Lord gave Sambandar Pearl Palanquin & Pearl UMbrella (Muthu Chivikai & Kudai) so that he can travel in ease. This is the sthalam to visit to get fame, recognition and andhasthu. Swaminatha Sivacharyar - Telephone: 04143 246303

Photos here

06 June 2009

Nadu Nadu

We have doing a lot of trips and with Hari's poonal etc too busy to post. We have visited Nadu Nadu (Tirupadiripuliyur, Tiruchopuram,. Tiruthinai Nagar, Tirumanikuzhi, Tiruvadhigai, Tiruaamathur, Tiruthuraiyur, Tirunavalur, TiruNeivennai, Tiru Idaiyaru, Tiruvennainallur & Tirumundichuram), Tiruvahindrapuram (DD - Nadu nadu), Tiruchaththimutram, Tiruvalanchuzhi, Tiru Aadanur(DD), Pazalarai Vadathali, Then Kurangaduthurai, Tiruvavaduthurai, Tirukozhambam, Tiruvazundur, Tiruvizandur(DD), Tirukolakka, Tirukannarkoil, Tiruninriyur) Some of the photos uploaded http://picasaweb.google.co.in/sriraman.seetha

29 March 2009

Kongu Nadu Sthalams

We visited Kongu Nadu Sthalams in February. There are seven sthalams, - no Divya Desams.
Reached Tirupur, our base, early in the morning by train. 

Travel plan:  Day 1: Tirupur - Karur - Venjamankudalur - Tiruchengode - Bhavani - Kodumudi - Tirupur. 

Day 2: Tirupur - Avinasi - Tirumurugan Poondi

Took a taxi to Karur. Karur was a capital of Chola Kings, was also the place of Karuvur Devar, Rajaraja Cholan's guru. Other capitals were Uraiyur, Thanjavur, Pazayarai, Tiruvarur and Poompuhar. Pasupatheeswarar has two consorts. Apparently, the original Ambal was buried during muslim invasion and could not be found. Another Ambal was installed. Then, the old Ambal was discovered and reinstalled again. Temple is huge, well maintained, reasonably patronised. We were refused permission to photograph. Sambandar padigam here.

Venjaman Koodalur was the next destination. This is about 15km from Karur. The temple was destroyed by floods in 50s  and rebuilt in 70s.  Sundarar has a padigam here. Temple is marketed as the one to go if marriage is delayed. 

21 March 2009

Tondai Nattu Sthlams

We have been busy on Hari's poonal arrangements. Also tied up with loads of laziness to post!

We did a day trip to 7 sthalams - 4 Tondai Nadu & 2 Nadunadu, 1 newly discovered (in Tondainadu) - a personal high score for a day's visit. We started with Achirupakkam, then to Kiliyanur, Araseeli, Irumbai Makalam, Tiruvakkarai, Vadukur, and rounded off with Puravar Panankattur. 1, 3, 4 & 5 are Tondai Nadu sthalams, 2 is a newly discovered sthalam (along with Tiruvidaivai). 6 & 7 are in Nadunadu.

The family started at 6 in the morning, drove on NH45, had breakfast at Highway in at Madurantakam at 8 and reached Accharapakkam at 830. Swami started off in His ther to destroy Tripuram, and Pillayar broke the achchu of the ther here (Achcu + iRu+ Pakkam). Temple has a unique structure: 2 Swamy's, Atcheeswarar  is aligned to Dwajasthambam and the second Swamy  is aligned to Rajagopuram. The temple is reasonably big, has utsava vigrahams for all the nayanmars. The temple is well supported by local community - different communities - Vanniayars, Mudaliyars, Reddiyars, Brahmins - contributing to renovation of different parts of the temple- Rajagopuram, Swamy Vimanam, Ambal Vimanam, Tirukalyana Mandapam etc. Sankar Sivacharyar (Mobile: 98423 09534)  seems popular here.  Temple is reasonable patronised by devotees. Sung by Sambandar.

At Tindivanam, took NH66 towards Pondicherry. Killiyanur was the destination. Reached around 10. This is a later addtion to PPS. Sambandar Thevarams were  published in 1930s. After analysing many Kiliyanurs, some wise men concluded this was The Killiyanur. The temple is about a km from the main road. Located among paddy fields and a lake in serene green surroundings. Harihara Sivacharyar (Mobile: 99764 40754) lives nearby. He opened the temple for us. Apprently, the previous day was Pradosham and Agastheeswarar was all decked up when we went in. A serene atmosphere enveloped us. Ambal is Akhilandeswari and the Sivacharyar compared her to Tiruvanaikka Akhilandeswari. We sort of mumbled Akhilandeswari...

Next one was Araseeli, now called Ozhindiyapattu. Crossed the Thailapuram Thottam. Took a 2km deviation on left & reached Araseeli. The temple is being renovated. Single handedly by Pondy CM, said Kumar Sivacharyar (Phone: 04147 235472). Swamy was again decked up. Thevara Vazhipattu Mandram, Thanjavur travel to PPS and perform Abhisheka - Aradanais. Sivacharyar had just finished it and they had just left a few minutes back. He asked us to stand infront of Araseelinathar for a few minutes in silence and pray and left us alone. Those few minutes were overwhelming. 

Then it was Irumbai Makalam. The books described the temple as being disrepair, low on maintenance, etc etc. We were concerned that Hari's descendants are going to miss treasures like this.  When we reached the place, it was completely the opposite. The temple was amazingly renovated/ decorated, decent crowd etc. Sivacharyar (Mobile: 94434 65502) told us renovating was "asura velai and only asuras could do it". Apparently done by "Saraya Adhibar". We have never seen a temple like this - painting done using plant extracts all over the temple (Kerala style), complete ardha mandapam covered with brassworks (by a Kumbakonam artisan) etc.
Sivacharyar did archanai, singing in Sivaranjani. I appreciated him for his music. He went in, took his thalam and started singing Thevarams. The first one was Madarpidi Kanniyanai..., sung by Appar, at Tiruvaiyaru when Swamy gives him Kailasa Kaatchi. It was as if we are getting our Kailasa Kaatchi at Irumbai.  Were completely moved to tears. Sivacharyar treated us to a few more thevarams. Irumbai is one of the three Maha Kaleswarars (Ujjain and Ambar Makalam) being the other two. We were out of Irumbai by 12.

Tiruvakkarai was the next destination. This is on another Tindivanam - Pondy road, about 25km from Irumbai. Take SH136 to Tindivanam from Pondy and at Perumbakkam  turn left for another 7km. This is wrongly marked on Google maps as to be on the right had sind when travelling from Pondy to Tindivanam. Temple is huge. Being converted from a Sivan temple to Kali temple.  Swamy bhanam has faces carved on it, unusual for a Siva lingam. Temple is famous for Vakra Kali. Also has a Perumal sannidhi in the prakaram. Noisy, Crowded and dirty. Concrete constructions happening all over, temple is transmogrifying from large, airy, bright, calm one to claustrophobic, boxed in, dim, noisy one.

Retraced our path to Irumbai and further on to Auroville for a short visit and food.

Started from Auroville around 5pm on NH45A towards Vilupuram.  Vadukur (now called Thiru Andar Koil) was the destination, reached at 6pm. Temple is maintained by ASI. So, cant be renovated and can only be conserved. Resembles Tanjavur on a much smaller scale. Venkatesa Sivacharyar (Phone: 0413 264 1135) performs pujai here.

Proceeded to Puravar Panankattur. By now, it was 7 and dark. Ganesa Sivacharyar (Mobile: 94448 97861) was performing Pal Abhishekam. Fantastic in his diction and knowledge. Talked about the sthalam and thevaram etc.  The temple is on NH45C to Kumbakonam. If you have travelled to Kumbakonam by road, you must defintely have seen it.

It was tiring but wholesome trip when we reached home by 11 after dinner at Tambaram. 

Photos here


17 January 2009

Tirumangalakudi

Kaveri was in full flow. No land ceiling act. Many karyasthars and kanakkupillais to run agriculture. Even when land ceiling ws introduced, one can always register land in the name of karyasthar. So, lots of money and nothing worthwhile to do. Thanjavur jilla mirasdars needed entertainment. It was available for asking. And how! Tirumangalakudi was one of the centres of entertainment. It was packed with women of music and dance. And entertainment. Mirasdars headed for it in droves. And lost their land and money. All that is history. Read T Janakiraman stories on this phenomenon. Now, Tirumangalakudi is a sleepy village on the northern bank of Kaveri, about 10km east of Kumbakonam,  on the way to Suryanar Kovil and so basks in the reflected glory. 

By itself, it has a hoary past and glorious temple. Prana Varadeswarar (now corrupted to Prananatheswarar) and Mangala Nayaki are the presiding deities. Pancha Mangala kshetram - Mangala Vimanam, Mangala Vinayakar, Mangala Ambikai and Mangala Tirtham. It is 38th on the North of Kaveri temples, sung by Sambandar (link to padhigam) & Appar (Padhigam). Appar mentions sthalapuranam of the temple in the padigam - that Vishnu, Kali, Brahma, Agasthya worshipped here. 

A tax collector built the temple out of taxt money (a la Bhadrachalam Ramadas). King ordered him dead.  Tax collecto's wife prayed to Mangala Nayaki who brought him alive.  

Temple is under the management of Tiruvavaduthurai adheenam. The adheenam whiwas a seat of Tamil scholarship and music. Read U Ve Swaminatha Iyer to know more.

Pl contact Jagadisa Sivacharyar 94440 36383. 0435 247 0480. Temple is open from 630 - 1230 and 4pm - 830.


14 January 2009

Tirumayilai

After long time, we went to Tirumayilai aka Mylapore. Kapaleeswarar proclaims "Mayilayae Kayilai'. Ardent devotees of Kapali & Karpakam affirm this. This 24th in Tondai Nadu.

Poompavai
Sivanesar was a merchant in Mylapore. He  wanted to marry off her daughter Poompavai to Sambandar. Before this wish could be fulfilled, Poompavai died of snakebite. Sivanesar kept her bones in a pot and was waiting for Sambandar. Sambandar, after visiting Tiruvottriyur came to Mayilai. Sivanesar narrated the story to Sambandar and brought the pot of bones. Sambandar sang the 'Mattitta..' padigam. Poombavai emerged alive from the bones. Sambandar then explained that he could not marry her as Sivanesar's daughter was dead and the new Poompavai is Siva's daughter. Poompavai festival is celebrated on the 8th day of Panguni Peruvizha (the Brahmotsavam). 

In the padigam, Sambandar  mentions many festivals that happen at Tirumayilai and asks Poompavai how she could die without seeing them. The festivals he mentions are: Purattasi Pooratadi, Aippasi Onam, Karthikai Deepam, Margazhi Tiruvadirai, Thai Poosam, Masi Magam (bathing in sea), Panguni Uthiram, Chitirai Ashtami, Vaikasi Ponnoonjal (Swing festival), Pavitrosavam (Aani, Aadi, Aavani). That is, a festival on Pounrnami of every month. This is a moving, emotion filled padigam. 

Mayilai is also the place of Vayilar Nayanar who worshipped Siva in the temple of his heart (Manakkovil), lit the lamp of knowledge (Gnana vilakku), bathed him in water of bliss (Inba neer), fed him love (anbu unavu) and thus performed Gnana Poojai. Pl do see his shrine in the southern side.

Oodhuvar
If you go to Mayilai, one experience you cannot miss is listening to the Oodhuvar singing Thevaram.  Beautiful voice, moving lines, clear pronounciation, simple tunes. Amazing!  He sang Nattai, Saveri, Kedara Gowlai, Yadukula Kambodhi, etc. His Navagraha Padigam was so moving that you cannot but shed tears. Please sit in front of him and close your eyes. He will bring Kapali in your manakkovil. I realised the meaning of the padigam as I was listening to him - En Ulame Pugundhadhadhanal - Avai nalla nalla  Adiyar Avarkku Migave  - meaning, Siva enters your heart with matted locks, Gangai and Chandran and the Navagrahas can only be benefactors.

Nayanmar Festivals
Mayilai observes the festivals of all Nayanmars on the respective dates. Not many temples do this.

10 January 2009

Tiruvisanallur

My uncle told me this story: He tuned in to Vijayawada AIR a few years back. A Tani Avartanam was going on.  Mridangam was outstanding with rich chapus and gumkis. This was followed by ghatam which rained sollus. Then, kanjira took over with amazing variations in the bass. Back to mridangam... This happened for a few rounds. He was amazed at the tonal quality and technical virtuosity. Started guessing who this fatastic team was. Could it be Palghat Mani, Palani Subbudu, Alangudi Ramachandran...The programme got over. 'That was Vikatam programme byThiruvisanallur Ramaswamy Sastrigal', said the announcer in Telugu. It took sometine for my uncle to recover from the shock.

Vikatam Ramaswamy Sastrigal was given the title 'Kapotam' by Kanchi Acharyal for his imitation of pigeons. Sastrigal conducted aradhanai for Tiruvisanallur Sridhara Ayyaval for many years. Sridhara Ayyaval was a Siva Bhakta, and one of the three gurus of Bhajanai Sampradaya. 

Tiruvisainallur has produced many such philosphers, scholars and musicians. Uyyavanda Deva Nayanar, author of Tiruvundiyar, a Saiva Siddhantha text, was born here. Tiruvisanallur is a padal petra sthalam, being 43rd of 63 Kaveri Vadakarai sthalams.  Sambandar has sung a padigam here.

It is about 10km east of Kumbakonam.  Can be reached in 15-30 min from Kumbakonam. Ganeshkumar Sivacharyar (94447 47142, 0435 2000679) serves the Lord. Timing: 730 - 1230, 0330 - 0800. Sivacharyar lives next to the temple.  

The temple is huge,  managed by Thanjavur Aranmanai Samasthanam. Not very well maintained, short of resources, under renovation. Not too many sevarthis. Therefore, need to adopt new marketing strategies. Charturkala Bhairavar is being marketed. Hope results turn out as good as Tirunageswaram or Alangudi. 

Sad to see a village with a hoary tradition of scholarship and culture deteriorating.

Photos here.

04 January 2009

Ahobilam

There are many myths about Ahobilam. Chief among them is it is very difficult to visit the place. Like many myths, this is false. Ahobilam is a very easy place to visit.  You can have darisanam of all Narasimhars.

Ahobilam is known as SingaveLkunRam. Thirumangai alwar has sung 10 pasurams. He calls Narasimha as AaL Ari. AaL is Nara, Ari means singam. Beautiful translation.

Logistics
From Bangalore, Chennai and Hyderabad, there are buses to Allagadda. Ahobilam is 30km from Allagadda.  From Bangalore and Hyderabad, there are trains to Nandyal. Ahobilam is 74km from Nandyal. From Chennai, there are trains to Cuddapah. Ahobilam is 118km from Cuddapah.
You can stay at Ahobila Mutt. Or at Haritha, AP Tourism Hotel (08519 252 060/040 2329 8456/8457). Food at Haritha.

Darisanams
There are 13 places to see in Ahobilam - The nine Narasimhars
  1. Yogananda Narasimhar (in Lower Ahobilam, accessible by road)
  2. Chatra Vata Narasimhar (in Lower Ahobilam, accessible by road)
  3. Bhargava Narasimhar (in Lower Ahobilam, accessible by 15min auto/ jeep ride over rough terrain, no road)
  4. Karaancha Narasimhar (on the way to upper Ahobilam from lower Ahobilam, accessible by road)
  5. Ahobila Narasimhar (in upper Ahobilam, 9 km from lower Ahobilam, accessible by road + 50 steps to climb)
  6. Varaha Narasimhar (15min trek over rocky terrain from Ahobila Narasimar)
  7. Malola Narasimhar (15min climb on steps from Varaha  Narasimar)
  8. Jwala Narasimhar (75 min trek from Varaha over rocky terrain/ steps)
  9. Pavana Narasimhar (2 hour trek from Ahobila Narasimha or 2 hour jeep ride from lower Ahobila over rough terrain)
  10. 1 more Narasimhar Prahladavaradan (lower Ahobilam, by road) 
  11. Bhavanasini (stream), behind Ahobila Narasimha 
  12. Ugrasthambam, the pillar Narasimha emerged from (most difficult, 70 degree climb for 2km, 2 hours from Jwala(we avoided this)
  13. Prahlada cave (15 min trek from Malola).

Our Visit
Day 1
Reached Ahobilam on 28 Dec by 330pm. 
Started from Malola Guest House: 4pm
Reach Bhargava: 415
Back to Malola: 430
Reach Yogananda: 435
Reach Chatravata: 445
Reach Prahlada Varadan: 5pm
Leave Prahlada Varadan: 530
Have dinner at Haritha: 730.
Close day.
Day 2
Get up on 29 Dec at 5am
Start for Uppper Ahobilam: 640am
Reach Ahobila: 7am
Leave Ahobila: 720
Cross Varaha: 735
Reach Jwala: 9am
Leave Jwala: 930
Reach Malola: 1015
Leave Malola: 1030
Reach Prahlada cave: 1045
Leave Prahlada Cave: 11am
Reach Malola: 1110
Reach Varaha: 1115
Leave Varaha: 1125
Reach Ahobila: 1140
Finish Lunch at Satram: 1220
Start from upper Ahobilam:1230
Reach Karancha: 1235
Leave Karancha: 1240
Start for Pavana from Lower Ahobilam: 1245pm
Reach Pavana: 215
Leave Pavana: 230
Reach lower Ahobilam: 4pm
Leave Ahobilam: 5pm

Sugggested Plan
You can start the day by 630am (not earlier) and close by 6pm (not later).
A: 1, 2, 3, 10 will take 90 min
B: 5, 11, 8, 7, 13, 6, 4 in this order will take 5 hours
C: 9 will take 4 hours

If you reach Ahobilam before 8am, do B, A, C. If you reach before 2pm, do A & C on day 1 and B the next day, If you reach before 4pm, do A on day 1 and B & C on day 2.

Travel Tips
  1. Accommodation may not be a problem even if you do not book, but booking recommended.
  2. Travel by bus may not be a problem even if you do not book, but booking recommended.
  3. Essential to hire a guide for the complete trip. Malola manager, Sri Badri will help.
  4. Must have breakfast at Haritha or pongal prasadam at Ahobila Narasimha before you start the trek.
  5. Wear shoes, caps. 
  6. Must take water, eatables, fruits  in your shoulder bag, will really keep you going.

Photos here

03 January 2009

Srisailam

Srirangam is THE temple for Vaishnavas, known as 'Kovil' & No. 1 among Divya Desams. Chidambaram is THE temple for Saivas, known as 'Kovil', No. 1 among Padal Petra Sthalams.

What is Tirupathi for Saivas? In Tirupathi, Lord is atop Tirumalai. Saiva equivalent is Sri Sailam - Sri translates to Tiru and Sailam to Malai. Hence, Venkateswara equivalent is Mallikarjuneswara.

Logistics
From Hyderabad, Srisailam is a 4 hour drive. From Chennai, Kacheguda Express leaves at 5pm from Egmore and reaches Kurnool at 330am. You can take a taxi (3.5 hours) or bus (5.15 hrs). You can  stay at guesthouses. Temple is open 5am to 10pm,  not too much crowded, especially ticketed darisanams. I believe Sundays and Mondays are a bit crowded.

Temple Topography
The temple is slightly different from temple topography in Tamil Nadu. Utsava vigrahas of Mallikarjuna & Bhramaramba face the Moolasthanam, next to Nandi. Nataraja faces East, in front of another Nandi, showing back side to Moolasthanam. Bhramaramba sannidhi is behind Mallikarjunar Sannidhi, facing east. No Chandikeswarar, Dakshinamurthi or Durgai. In Durgai's place is Veerabhadraswamy. Moolasthana Vimanam differs in shape with a Trisoolam at the top.

Suggested Schedule:
Suprabhatam (only 10 tickets)/ Maha Mangala Harathi (only 50 tickets): Early Morning
Shikaram, Phaladhara - Panchadhara, Sakshi Ganapathi: Open entire day, can cover all the three in one hour
Akkamahadevi Caves  - 1030 - 1530
Ticketed Darisanam (if you cannot do Suprabhatam or MMH)

Connect with the Lord
Srisailam is one of the twelve Jyotirlingams. They are believed to have been given to Adi Sankara by Lord Siva Himself. You can touch and feel Sri Mallikarjuna and perform pooja yourself. Once, you do that, you can sort of think that you have established a direct connectivity with Lord Siva.

All the three  - Sambandar, Appar & Sundarar have sung a padigam each. Sambandar & Sundarar did not visit Srisailam, but have sung from Kalahasti. Appar visited Srisailam on the way to Kailasam. Srisailam is called Tiru Paruppadam. The padigams are engaved in marble slabs in the temple near Panchalingams.

Three Marudhurs
Three temples have Maruda maram (Arjuna tree) as Sthala vrikshams: Mallikarjunam (Srisailam) in the north,  Pudarjunam (Tirupudaimarudur, near Tirunelveli) in the south and Madhyarjunam (Tiruvidaimarudur near Kumbakonam) in the middle. The three sthalams must have been known together for a long time as Idai Marudhur is aptly named the middle one 

Krishna
Krishna, known locally as Patala Ganga, flows through Srisailam. You can take the rope car or descent 600 steps to reach it. You can take a holy dip, do boating. The view is breathtaking, reminds one of Madupatti lake in Munnar.

Akkamahadevi Caves
This is a must visit. Akkamahadevi is Kannada Andal, who worshipped Lord Siva. AP Tourism boat takes a single trip a day, starting at 1030 in the morning, you can expect to be back at1530. Pl take adequate water and food. No mobile signals.

Phala dhara - Pancha dhara is the believed to be the place Adi Sankara wrote Sivananda Lahari.
Sikharam is the top most point in Srisailam.

Photos here