Tirumangalakudi

Kaveri was in full flow. No land ceiling act. Many karyasthars and kanakkupillais to run agriculture. Even when land ceiling ws introduced, one can always register land in the name of karyasthar. So, lots of money and nothing worthwhile to do. Thanjavur jilla mirasdars needed entertainment. It was available for asking. And how! Tirumangalakudi was one of the centres of entertainment. It was packed with women of music and dance. And entertainment. Mirasdars headed for it in droves. And lost their land and money. All that is history. Read T Janakiraman stories on this phenomenon. Now, Tirumangalakudi is a sleepy village on the northern bank of Kaveri, about 10km east of Kumbakonam,  on the way to Suryanar Kovil and so basks in the reflected glory. 

By itself, it has a hoary past and glorious temple. Prana Varadeswarar (now corrupted to Prananatheswarar) and Mangala Nayaki are the presiding deities. Pancha Mangala kshetram - Mangala Vimanam, Mangala Vinayakar, Mangala Ambikai and Mangala Tirtham. It is 38th on the North of Kaveri temples, sung by Sambandar (link to padhigam) & Appar (Padhigam). Appar mentions sthalapuranam of the temple in the padigam - that Vishnu, Kali, Brahma, Agasthya worshipped here. 

A tax collector built the temple out of taxt money (a la Bhadrachalam Ramadas). King ordered him dead.  Tax collecto's wife prayed to Mangala Nayaki who brought him alive.  

Temple is under the management of Tiruvavaduthurai adheenam. The adheenam whiwas a seat of Tamil scholarship and music. Read U Ve Swaminatha Iyer to know more.

Pl contact Jagadisa Sivacharyar 94440 36383. 0435 247 0480. Temple is open from 630 - 1230 and 4pm - 830.

Photos

Tirumayilai

After long time, we went to Tirumayilai aka Mylapore. Kapaleeswarar proclaims "Mayilayae Kayilai'. Ardent devotees of Kapali & Karpakam affirm this. This 24th in Tondai Nadu.

Poompavai

Sivanesar was a merchant in Mylapore. He  wanted to marry off her daughter Poompavai to Sambandar. Before this wish could be fulfilled, Poompavai died of snakebite. Sivanesar kept her bones in a pot and was waiting for Sambandar. Sambandar, after visiting Tiruvottriyur came to Mayilai. Sivanesar narrated the story to Sambandar and brought the pot of bones. Sambandar sang the 'Mattitta..' padigam. Poombavai emerged alive from the bones. Sambandar then explained that he could not marry her as Sivanesar's daughter was dead and the new Poompavai is Siva's daughter. Poompavai festival is celebrated on the 8th day of Panguni Peruvizha (the Brahmotsavam). 

In the padigam, Sambandar  mentions many festivals that happen at Tirumayilai and asks Poompavai how she could die without seeing them. The festivals he mentions are: Purattasi Pooratadi, Aippasi Onam, Karthikai Deepam, Margazhi Tiruvadirai, Thai Poosam, Masi Magam (bathing in sea), Panguni Uthiram, Chitirai Ashtami, Vaikasi Ponnoonjal (Swing festival), Pavitrosavam (Aani, Aadi, Aavani). That is, a festival on Pounrnami of every month. This is a moving, emotion filled padigam. 

Vayilar Nayanar

Mayilai is also the place of Vayilar Nayanar who worshipped Siva in the temple of his heart (Manakkovil), lit the lamp of knowledge (Gnana vilakku), bathed him in water of bliss (Inba neer), fed him love (anbu unavu) and thus performed Gnana Poojai. Pl do see his shrine in the southern side.

Oodhuvar

If you go to Mayilai, one experience you cannot miss is listening to the Oodhuvar singing Thevaram.  Beautiful voice, moving lines, clear pronounciation, simple tunes. Amazing!  He sang Nattai, Saveri, Kedara Gowlai, Yadukula Kambodhi, etc. His Navagraha Padigam was so moving that you cannot but shed tears. Please sit in front of him and close your eyes. He will bring Kapali in your manakkovil. I realised the meaning of the padigam as I was listening to him - En Ulame Pugundhadhadhanal - Avai nalla nalla  Adiyar Avarkku Migave  - meaning, Siva enters your heart with matted locks, Gangai and Chandran and the Navagrahas can only be benefactors.

Nayanmar Festivals

Mayilai observes the festivals of all Nayanmars on the respective dates. Not many temples do this.

Tiruvisanallur

My uncle told me this story: He tuned in to Vijayawada AIR a few years back. A Tani Avartanam was going on.  Mridangam was outstanding with rich chapus and gumkis. This was followed by ghatam which rained sollus. Then, kanjira took over with amazing variations in the bass. Back to mridangam... This happened for a few rounds. He was amazed at the tonal quality and technical virtuosity. Started guessing who this fatastic team was. Could it be Palghat Mani, Palani Subbudu, Alangudi Ramachandran...The programme got over. 'That was Vikatam programme byThiruvisanallur Ramaswamy Sastrigal', said the announcer in Telugu. It took sometine for my uncle to recover from the shock.

Vikatam Ramaswamy Sastrigal was given the title 'Kapotam' by Kanchi Acharyal for his imitation of pigeons. Sastrigal conducted aradhanai for Tiruvisanallur Sridhara Ayyaval for many years. Sridhara Ayyaval was a Siva Bhakta, and one of the three gurus of Bhajanai Sampradaya. 

Tiruvisainallur has produced many such philosphers, scholars and musicians. Uyyavanda Deva Nayanar, author of Tiruvundiyar, a Saiva Siddhantha text, was born here. Tiruvisanallur is a padal petra sthalam, being 43rd of 63 Kaveri Vadakarai sthalams.  Sambandar has sung a padigam here.

It is about 10km east of Kumbakonam.  Can be reached in 15-30 min from Kumbakonam. Ganeshkumar Sivacharyar (94447 47142, 0435 2000679) serves the Lord. Timing: 730 - 1230, 0330 - 0800. Sivacharyar lives next to the temple.  

The temple is huge,  managed by Thanjavur Aranmanai Samasthanam. Not very well maintained, short of resources, under renovation. Not too many sevarthis. Therefore, need to adopt new marketing strategies. Charturkala Bhairavar is being marketed. Hope results turn out as good as Tirunageswaram or Alangudi. 

Sad to see a village with a hoary tradition of scholarship and culture deteriorating.

Photos here.

Ahobilam

There are many myths about Ahobilam. Chief among them is it is very difficult to visit the place. Like many myths, this is false. Ahobilam is a very easy place to visit.  You can have darisanam of all Narasimhars.

Ahobilam is known as SingaveLkunRam. Thirumangai alwar has sung 10 pasurams. He calls Narasimha as AaL Ari. AaL is Nara, Ari means singam. Beautiful translation.

Logistics

From Bangalore, Chennai and Hyderabad, there are buses to Allagadda. Ahobilam is 30km from Allagadda.  From Bangalore and Hyderabad, there are trains to Nandyal. Ahobilam is 74km from Nandyal. From Chennai, there are trains to Cuddapah. Ahobilam is 118km from Cuddapah.

You can stay at Ahobila Mutt. Or at Haritha, AP Tourism Hotel (08519 252 060/040 2329 8456/8457). Food at Haritha.

Darisanams

There are 13 places to see in Ahobilam - The nine Narasimhars

1. Yogananda Narasimhar (in Lower Ahobilam, accessible by road)
2. Chatra Vata Narasimhar (in Lower Ahobilam, accessible by road)
3. Bhargava Narasimhar (in Lower Ahobilam, accessible by 15min auto/ jeep ride over rough terrain, no road)
4. Karaancha Narasimhar (on the way to upper Ahobilam from lower Ahobilam, accessible by road)
5. Ahobila Narasimhar (in upper Ahobilam, 9 km from lower Ahobilam, accessible by road + 50 steps to climb)
6. Varaha Narasimhar (15min trek over rocky terrain from Ahobila Narasimar)
7. Malola Narasimhar (15min climb on steps from Varaha  Narasimar)
8. Jwala Narasimhar (75 min trek from Varaha over rocky terrain/ steps)
   
9. Pavana Narasimhar (2 hour trek from Ahobila Narasimha or 2 hour jeep ride from lower Ahobila over rough terrain)
10. 1 more Narasimhar Prahladavaradan (lower Ahobilam, by road) 
11. Bhavanasini (stream), behind Ahobila Narasimha 
12. Ugrasthambam, the pillar Narasimha emerged from (most difficult, 70 degree climb for 2km, 2 hours from Jwala(we avoided this)
13. Prahlada cave (15 min trek from Malola).
    

Our Visit

Day 1

Reached Ahobilam on 28 Dec by 330pm. 

Started from Malola Guest House: 4pm

Reach Bhargava: 415

Back to Malola: 430

Reach Yogananda: 435

Reach Chatravata: 445

Reach Prahlada Varadan: 5pm

Leave Prahlada Varadan: 530

Have dinner at Haritha: 730.

Close day.

Day 2

Get up on 29 Dec at 5am

Start for Uppper Ahobilam: 640am

Reach Ahobila: 7am

Leave Ahobila: 720

Cross Varaha: 735

Reach Jwala: 9am

Leave Jwala: 930

Reach Malola: 1015

Leave Malola: 1030

Reach Prahlada cave: 1045

Leave Prahlada Cave: 11am

Reach Malola: 1110

Reach Varaha: 1115

Leave Varaha: 1125

Reach Ahobila: 1140

Finish Lunch at Satram: 1220

Start from upper Ahobilam:1230

Reach Karancha: 1235

Leave Karancha: 1240

Start for Pavana from Lower Ahobilam: 1245pm

Reach Pavana: 215

Leave Pavana: 230

Reach lower Ahobilam: 4pm

Leave Ahobilam: 5pm

Sugggested Plan

You can start the day by 630am (not earlier) and close by 6pm (not later).

A: 1, 2, 3, 10 will take 90 min

B: 5, 11, 8, 7, 13, 6, 4 in this order will take 5 hours

C: 9 will take 4 hours

If you reach Ahobilam before 8am, do B, A, C. If you reach before 2pm, do A & C on day 1 and B the next day, If you reach before 4pm, do A on day 1 and B & C on day 2.

Travel Tips

1. Accommodation may not be a problem even if you do not book, but booking recommended.
   
2. Travel by bus may not be a problem even if you do not book, but booking recommended.
   
3. Essential to hire a guide for the complete trip. Malola manager, Sri Badri will help.
   
4. Must have breakfast at Haritha or pongal prasadam at Ahobila Narasimha before you start the trek.
   
5. Wear shoes, caps. 
   
6. Must take water, eatables, fruits  in your shoulder bag, will really keep you going.
   

Photos here

Srisailam

Srirangam is THE temple for Vaishnavas, known as 'Kovil' & No. 1 among Divya Desams. Chidambaram is THE temple for Saivas, known as 'Kovil', No. 1 among Padal Petra Sthalams.

What is Tirupathi for Saivas? In Tirupathi, Lord is atop Tirumalai. Saiva equivalent is Sri Sailam - Sri translates to Tiru and Sailam to Malai. Hence, Venkateswara equivalent is Mallikarjuneswara.

Logistics

From Hyderabad, Srisailam is a 4 hour drive. From Chennai, Kacheguda Express leaves at 5pm from Egmore and reaches Kurnool at 330am. You can take a taxi (3.5 hours) or bus (5.15 hrs). You can  stay at guesthouses. Temple is open 5am to 10pm,  not too much crowded, especially ticketed darisanams. I believe Sundays and Mondays are a bit crowded.

Temple Topography

The temple is slightly different from temple topography in Tamil Nadu. Utsava vigrahas of Mallikarjuna & Bhramaramba face the Moolasthanam, next to Nandi. Nataraja faces East, in front of another Nandi, showing back side to Moolasthanam. Bhramaramba sannidhi is behind Mallikarjunar Sannidhi, facing east. No Chandikeswarar, Dakshinamurthi or Durgai. In Durgai's place is Veerabhadraswamy. Moolasthana Vimanam differs in shape with a Trisoolam at the top.

Suggested Schedule:

Suprabhatam (only 10 tickets)/ Maha Mangala Harathi (only 50 tickets): Early Morning

Shikaram, Phaladhara - Panchadhara, Sakshi Ganapathi: Open entire day, can cover all the three in one hour

Akkamahadevi Caves  - 1030 - 1530

Ticketed Darisanam (if you cannot do Suprabhatam or MMH)

Connect with the Lord

Srisailam is one of the twelve Jyotirlingams. They are believed to have been given to Adi Sankara by Lord Siva Himself. You can touch and feel Sri Mallikarjuna and perform pooja yourself. Once, you do that, you can sort of think that you have established a direct connectivity with Lord Siva.

All the three  - Sambandar, Appar & Sundarar have sung a padigam each. Sambandar & Sundarar did not visit Srisailam, but have sung from Kalahasti. Appar visited Srisailam on the way to Kailasam. Srisailam is called Tiru Paruppadam. The padigams are engaved in marble slabs in the temple near Panchalingams.

Three Marudhurs

Three temples have Maruda maram (Arjuna tree) as Sthala vrikshams: Mallikarjunam (Srisailam) in the north,  Pudarjunam (Tirupudaimarudur, near Tirunelveli) in the south and Madhyarjunam (Tiruvidaimarudur near Kumbakonam) in the middle. The three sthalams must have been known together for a long time as Idai Marudhur is aptly named the middle one 

Krishna

Krishna, known locally as Patala Ganga, flows through Srisailam. You can take the rope car or descent 600 steps to reach it. You can take a holy dip, do boating. The view is breathtaking, reminds one of Madupatti lake in Munnar.

Akkamahadevi Caves

This is a must visit. Akkamahadevi is Kannada Andal, who worshipped Lord Siva. AP Tourism boat takes a single trip a day, starting at 1030 in the morning, you can expect to be back at1530. Pl take adequate water and food. No mobile signals.

Phala dhara - Pancha dhara is the believed to be the place Adi Sankara wrote Sivananda Lahari.

Sikharam is the top most point in Srisailam.

Photos here