29 March 2009

Kongu Nadu Sthalams

We visited Kongu Nadu Sthalams in February. There are seven sthalams, - no Divya Desams.
Reached Tirupur, our base, early in the morning by train. 

Travel plan:  Day 1: Tirupur - Karur - Venjamankudalur - Tiruchengode - Bhavani - Kodumudi - Tirupur. 

Day 2: Tirupur - Avinasi - Tirumurugan Poondi

Took a taxi to Karur. Karur was a capital of Chola Kings, was also the place of Karuvur Devar, Rajaraja Cholan's guru. Other capitals were Uraiyur, Thanjavur, Pazayarai, Tiruvarur and Poompuhar. Pasupatheeswarar has two consorts. Apparently, the original Ambal was buried during muslim invasion and could not be found. Another Ambal was installed. Then, the old Ambal was discovered and reinstalled again. Temple is huge, well maintained, reasonably patronised. We were refused permission to photograph. Sambandar padigam here.

Venjaman Koodalur was the next destination. This is about 15km from Karur. The temple was destroyed by floods in 50s  and rebuilt in 70s.  Sundarar has a padigam here. Temple is marketed as the one to go if marriage is delayed. 

21 March 2009

Tondai Nattu Sthlams

We have been busy on Hari's poonal arrangements. Also tied up with loads of laziness to post!

We did a day trip to 7 sthalams - 4 Tondai Nadu & 2 Nadunadu, 1 newly discovered (in Tondainadu) - a personal high score for a day's visit. We started with Achirupakkam, then to Kiliyanur, Araseeli, Irumbai Makalam, Tiruvakkarai, Vadukur, and rounded off with Puravar Panankattur. 1, 3, 4 & 5 are Tondai Nadu sthalams, 2 is a newly discovered sthalam (along with Tiruvidaivai). 6 & 7 are in Nadunadu.

The family started at 6 in the morning, drove on NH45, had breakfast at Highway in at Madurantakam at 8 and reached Accharapakkam at 830. Swami started off in His ther to destroy Tripuram, and Pillayar broke the achchu of the ther here (Achcu + iRu+ Pakkam). Temple has a unique structure: 2 Swamy's, Atcheeswarar  is aligned to Dwajasthambam and the second Swamy  is aligned to Rajagopuram. The temple is reasonably big, has utsava vigrahams for all the nayanmars. The temple is well supported by local community - different communities - Vanniayars, Mudaliyars, Reddiyars, Brahmins - contributing to renovation of different parts of the temple- Rajagopuram, Swamy Vimanam, Ambal Vimanam, Tirukalyana Mandapam etc. Sankar Sivacharyar (Mobile: 98423 09534)  seems popular here.  Temple is reasonable patronised by devotees. Sung by Sambandar.

At Tindivanam, took NH66 towards Pondicherry. Killiyanur was the destination. Reached around 10. This is a later addtion to PPS. Sambandar Thevarams were  published in 1930s. After analysing many Kiliyanurs, some wise men concluded this was The Killiyanur. The temple is about a km from the main road. Located among paddy fields and a lake in serene green surroundings. Harihara Sivacharyar (Mobile: 99764 40754) lives nearby. He opened the temple for us. Apprently, the previous day was Pradosham and Agastheeswarar was all decked up when we went in. A serene atmosphere enveloped us. Ambal is Akhilandeswari and the Sivacharyar compared her to Tiruvanaikka Akhilandeswari. We sort of mumbled Akhilandeswari...

Next one was Araseeli, now called Ozhindiyapattu. Crossed the Thailapuram Thottam. Took a 2km deviation on left & reached Araseeli. The temple is being renovated. Single handedly by Pondy CM, said Kumar Sivacharyar (Phone: 04147 235472). Swamy was again decked up. Thevara Vazhipattu Mandram, Thanjavur travel to PPS and perform Abhisheka - Aradanais. Sivacharyar had just finished it and they had just left a few minutes back. He asked us to stand infront of Araseelinathar for a few minutes in silence and pray and left us alone. Those few minutes were overwhelming. 

Then it was Irumbai Makalam. The books described the temple as being disrepair, low on maintenance, etc etc. We were concerned that Hari's descendants are going to miss treasures like this.  When we reached the place, it was completely the opposite. The temple was amazingly renovated/ decorated, decent crowd etc. Sivacharyar (Mobile: 94434 65502) told us renovating was "asura velai and only asuras could do it". Apparently done by "Saraya Adhibar". We have never seen a temple like this - painting done using plant extracts all over the temple (Kerala style), complete ardha mandapam covered with brassworks (by a Kumbakonam artisan) etc.
Sivacharyar did archanai, singing in Sivaranjani. I appreciated him for his music. He went in, took his thalam and started singing Thevarams. The first one was Madarpidi Kanniyanai..., sung by Appar, at Tiruvaiyaru when Swamy gives him Kailasa Kaatchi. It was as if we are getting our Kailasa Kaatchi at Irumbai.  Were completely moved to tears. Sivacharyar treated us to a few more thevarams. Irumbai is one of the three Maha Kaleswarars (Ujjain and Ambar Makalam) being the other two. We were out of Irumbai by 12.

Tiruvakkarai was the next destination. This is on another Tindivanam - Pondy road, about 25km from Irumbai. Take SH136 to Tindivanam from Pondy and at Perumbakkam  turn left for another 7km. This is wrongly marked on Google maps as to be on the right had sind when travelling from Pondy to Tindivanam. Temple is huge. Being converted from a Sivan temple to Kali temple.  Swamy bhanam has faces carved on it, unusual for a Siva lingam. Temple is famous for Vakra Kali. Also has a Perumal sannidhi in the prakaram. Noisy, Crowded and dirty. Concrete constructions happening all over, temple is transmogrifying from large, airy, bright, calm one to claustrophobic, boxed in, dim, noisy one.

Retraced our path to Irumbai and further on to Auroville for a short visit and food.

Started from Auroville around 5pm on NH45A towards Vilupuram.  Vadukur (now called Thiru Andar Koil) was the destination, reached at 6pm. Temple is maintained by ASI. So, cant be renovated and can only be conserved. Resembles Tanjavur on a much smaller scale. Venkatesa Sivacharyar (Phone: 0413 264 1135) performs pujai here.

Proceeded to Puravar Panankattur. By now, it was 7 and dark. Ganesa Sivacharyar (Mobile: 94448 97861) was performing Pal Abhishekam. Fantastic in his diction and knowledge. Talked about the sthalam and thevaram etc.  The temple is on NH45C to Kumbakonam. If you have travelled to Kumbakonam by road, you must defintely have seen it.

It was tiring but wholesome trip when we reached home by 11 after dinner at Tambaram. 

Photos here