Pandiya Nadu 1

Between 26 Dec and 2 Jan, we covered Pandia Nadu Padal Petra Sthalams & Divya Desams.

We started from Chennai on 25 Night & landed in Karaikudi next morning. We took a cab for the entire trip and started at six in the morning on 26th.

We covered Kalayarkovil, Thiruvadanai, Thirupunavasal and Thirupullani and reached Rameswaram for the night. We also saw Avudaiyarkovil & Uttarakosamangai, sung by Manikavachakar and not part of PPS.

Thirukanaper
Our first stop was Kalayarkovil, called Thirukanaper.  Kalayarkovil is 40km from Karaikudi & can be reached in an hour. The temple is unique - has three Swamys & three Ambals, in effect, three in one temple. The Swamy at the centre, Kaleeswarar is the Padal Petra Swamy.  Curiously, the huge Raja Gopuram, built by Marudhu Brothers, is for Someswarar, on the Southern side and Kaleeswarar Sannidhi has a smaller Gopuram. We reached the temple around 7am. As we entered, Thiruvembavai festival was being celebrated. Thiruvembavai was sung, and Manikkavachakar taken round the prakaram.

Legend is that Marudhu Bros were hiding & The British  said they would demolish the Gopuram if the Bros did not come out of the hiding. The Bros came out of the hiding and were executed. There are statues of King & the commanders, the Marudhu Bros. Aside story is the film Subramaniapuram has scenes filmed in the temple. Kaleeswara Sivacharyar 04575 232 516

Thiruvadanai
Thiruvadanai is 40km from Kalayarkovil. We reached by 9am. The Gopuram is again tall, huge temple, we were perhaps the only sevarthis. Gurukkal said during marriage seasons, there will be 100 weddings happening simultaneously. Lot of greenery in the temple, Ambal sannidhi was like another temple altogether. Pandia Nadu temples are huge, and neatly maintained. Ravi Sivam 94431 64348, 04561 254 438

Thirupunavayil
Thirupunavasal is 20kom from Thiruvadanai. We reached around 11. The temple is an amalgam of Pandia and Chola architecture - Rajagupuram like Pandiyas and Swami vimanam like Cholas. Swamy is huge, reportedly fourth biggest lingam after Thanjavur, Gaigaikonda Cholapuram and Tiruchi Thayumanavar. We were surprised to find two feet of water flooding the prakaram. Apparently, it rained heavily the previous week and Gurukkal was trying to pump water out with diesel pumps. Legend is that there are vigrahas of all the 14 Pandia Nadu PPS temple Swamys and Ambals and 63 nayanmars buried somewhere in the temple. There is also a shrine for Gram Devatai, you cannot see directly but only indirectly the reflection in a mirror. 04371 239 202, 04371 239 212.

Avudaiyarkovil
Next on the itinerary was Avudaiyarkovil. We reached around 1230. It is that great place where Swamy was waiting for years under Kurundamaram to 'ATKOL' Thiruvadavurar who became Manikkavachakar. Thiruvadavurar was a minister with the title Thennavan Brahmarayan under Pandia King (disputed: Arimardhana Pandiyan or Varaguna Pandian) and was the cause of Thiruvilayadal, "Nariyai Pariakkiyadhu'. Thiruvachakam and Thirukovaiyar are the 8th Thirumurai.   Thiruperundurai temple was built by Manikavachakar & does not follow many of the regular customs. Pujai is performed by Nambiyars (no connection to Nambiyars of Kerala). There are 301 Nambiyars, with 300 people and Athmanatha Swamy. This is very similar to 3000 Tillai Dikshitars. The temple is a work of art and passion. So beautiful and so moving. All the temple utsavams are to Manikkavachakar and not to the Swamy. There are no idols of Swamy and Ambal - they are in 'Aroopam'. Fortunate to visit during the Thiruvembavai festival. Atmanatha Nambiyar - 97877 37317.

Uttarakosamangai
Uttarakosamangai was out next stop, about 100km from Avudayarkovil. We reached around 330pm. This is again Manikavachakar territory. Most of his works are on Thiruperundurai or Uttarakosamangai. The temple is also famous for Maragada Nataraja, a huge statue Nataraja, made of Emerald. This under Sandana Kappu through out the year. This is removed on the Thiruvadhirai day and after abhisekams, reapplied on the same day. This is again a temple of magnificence. Mangaleswara Sivacharyar 04564 229 354.

Thirupullani
We reached Thirupullani, Divya Desam, 20km from Uttarakosamangai. Adhi Jagannatha Perumal is the main Perumal. Darbhasayana Ramar is special here - before building the Sethu, Ramar slept here on a bed of Darbhai. Muthuswamy Dikshitar's composition in Narayana Gowlai, Sri Ramam is a soothing to listen to.  Jayarama Bhattar 04567 254249. We left Thirupullani by 6pm and reached Rameswaram, 70km from here, for stay.

2009 Yatrais

Wish you a happy new year!

2009 was a very good year for us - we completed our yatrai of Padal Petra Sthalams & Divya Desams in Tondai Nadu, Nadu Nadu, Kongu Nadu, Malai Nadu and Pandia Nadu. We now have Vada Nadu, Eela Nadu (Ilangai) and Tuluva Nadu (Gokarnam) pending, of course lots in Chola Nadu. We hope to make good progress this year.

We completed Pandia Nadu yatrai in the last week of 2009. You will soon see a blog about this.

Malai Nadu

Last week, we visited Malai Nadu Divya Desams and Padal Petra Sthalam.

Travel Schedule:

Saturday

From Thrissur: 7am,

Thiruvithuvakkodu (Thirumittacode) 8am,

Thirunavay: 9am.

Guruvayoor: 1030am,

Thirumoozhikalam: 6pm,

Thiruvanjaikalam: 730pm

Sunday

Thirukkatkarai: 5am

ThiruSenkundur: 730am (We had seen other Divya Desams around Thiruvalla in 2006)

Thiruvananthapuram: 11am

Omampuliyur, Kanattu Mullur, Thirunaaraiyur, Thirukadambur

Had a darisanam of these temples. They are close to each other, around Kattumannargudi & Anaikarai. This is Ponniyin Selvan territory, around Veeranam.

If you are coming from the west (Neyveli, Kumbakonam), the seuqence is Kadambur, Omampuliyur, Kanattu Mullur and Naaraiyur. If you are coming from east (Chidambaram), sequence is the reverse.

Omampuliyur

Omampuliyur is called (H)Omamampuliyur in Sambandar Thevaram. Also sung by Appar. THis is 15km east of Anaikarai on the nothern bank of Kollidam. Or you can reach from Kattumannargudi, 10km south.Temple is neatly maintained. The huge Dakshinamurthi is in the main sannidhi, between Swamy & Ambal. Photos

Kanattu Mullur

is further deep in with no proper roads. THis is about 5km east of Omampuliyur. Oru kala pujai. Sivacharyar had left for the day when we went at 10am. Sung by Sundarar. Keys are available at nearby house for darisanam. Temple is partly renovated with concrete mandapam etc. Photos

Tirunaaraiyur

Birth place of Nambi Andar Nambi. Pollapillayar is special. Kumbabhishekam has just been performed. Slightly crowded. Appar 1, 2, (Second Padhigam is Thiruthandakam, a verse style started by Appar, he is called Thandaka Chaturar). Sambandar 1, 2, 3. Nambi Andar Nambi has also sung verses on the Lord. Photos

Thirukadambur

Intricately sculpted temple. Precious utsava idols too. Appar (the quote En Kadan Pani Seidhu Kidappadhe is from this padhigam, 2). Sambandar. Photos

Thiru Vijayamangai

Visited Thiru Vijayamangai. There are two versions of where this temple is. One version is south of Kollidam near Adanur & Thiruvaikavur. Another is north of Kollidam. Appar Thevaram states this sthalam is Govindaputtur, which is north of Kollidam. You go west from Anakarai or Jayankondam or south from Ariyalur. Temple is badly in need of renovation.

Thevarams 1, 2

Photos

Piranmalai, Thirupattur, Thirukoshtiyur, Thirumayam, Sithannavasal, Kudumiyanmalai,

We have completed Kongu Nadu, Tondai Nadu and Nadu Nadu. We ventured into Pandi Nadu (as called in PPS) and Pandiya Nadu (as in DD). We visited Kodunkundram (Piranmalai), Thirupattur, Thirukoshtiyur and Thirumayam.

We started from Tiruchi at 6am, took the nice highway to Madurai. After about 70km, took a left turn at Pallapatti. After 7km in this scenic road is Piranmalai (Kodunkundram). Piranmalai is reportedly the place Pari gave his chariot to Mullaikodi. Sung in many place in Sangam (Pattupattu, Ettuthogai). Temple is on the foothills. The temple is at three levels - Kodunkundreesar, the Padal Petra Swamy and Ambal, is at the bottom. You climb a flight of steps, you reach the middle level, & the famous Bhairavar and Kasi Viswanathar sannidhis . Another flight of steps leads to Mangai Bhagar - Swamy & Ambal in Kalyana Kolam (not Linga sswaroopam). Temple is under the Kundrakudi Adheenam. Curiously, there area couple of inscriptions from 1970s eulogising Kalaignar, including his achievement of winning against Aryans.

Sambandar padigam. Photos

Kannan Bhattar 96556 70709

We left Piranlamai at 930 & reached Titupattur at 10 (30km). Temple is under renovation. Swamy was worshipped by Lakshmi & hence Thiruthalinathar, Tirupattur etc. Yoga Bhairavar draws many devotees. Legend is that Nagesh, oops, Darumi was a Sivacharyar in Tiruputtur and the Lord composed Kongu Ther Vazhkai for him to be honoured by the king. temple &

Sambandar, Appar padigams. Photos Temple phone 04577 322486. Piranmalai Kannan Bhattar's uncle is the Gurukkal.

Tirukoshtiyur is about 10km from Tirupattur. The place where Ramanujar broadcast Ashtaksharam for the benefit of mankind. There are four Perumals at four levels - at ground level - Krishnan (Koothadiya kolam), first floor- Sowmyanarayanan (Kidantha kolam), Ninra Perumal at third level & Paramapada Nathan (amarntha kolam) at fourth level). It is from the fourth level of the Ashtanga Vimanam, Ramanujar announced for the world the Ashtaksharam.

Vimanam Glold Plating project is on. London Madhava Bhattacharyar ( 97863 09300) is the chief priest. Commanding & demanding. Apparently, he got the title after visiting London. You cannot see him in his current avatar for a long time as he is going to America and you can only see him as America Madhava Bhattacharyar after this. Not sure if Perumals at 3rd & 4th level are worshipped everyday.

Photos

Reached Tirumayam at 1230. The temple is one of the olderst in Tamil Nadu, a Pallava construction. Perumal & Siva temples by the side of Tirumayam fort. Two perumals - Ninra Swamy & a huge Kidantha Perumal.

Photos

After lunch at Pudukottai, visited Sithannavasal (Rock cut caves & Paintings) and Kudumiyanmalai, famous for Pallava period Inscription on Music (now UNESCO World Heritage Monument).

Reached Trichy at 630.

Arakandanallur, Tirukovilur, Tiruvannamalai

We started from Chennai at 430am, took NH 45 to Villupuram, turned right to SH7 and reached Arakandanallur (near Tirukovilur) around 830. We later learnt that Bhagavan Sri Ramana Maharshi also followed the same route to Tiruvannamalai - Arakandanallur, Tirukovilur & Tiruvannamalai. Further back, Sambandar got a darisanam of Tiruvannamalai from Arakandanallur and sang Thevaram on Tiruvannamalai from here.

Araiyaninallur temple, as called in the Thevaram, is built on a rock on the northern bank of Then Pennai. Tirukovilur temples (Padal Petra Sthalam & Divya Desam) are visible across the river. The temple has a huge Raja Gopuram on the southern side. Maintained well by Sri Ramanasramam. Atulyanatheswarar and Soundarya Kanakambikai rule here (Oppillamani Eswarar and Azhakiya Ponnammai). Gurukkal looks after many temples (when Sri Ramanar visited the same Gurukkal performed poojas at Arakandanallur and Tirukovilur (Kizhayur). Kasi Sivacharyar mobile no: 99651 44849. Pl call him before you reach the temple. Odhuvar sang the padigams beautifully in Karaharapriya and Senchurutti. Photos

Tirukovalur Veerattam is one of the eight sthalams Siva killed demons. Here, it was Anthakasuran. This is also the sthalam Avvaiyar sang Vinayakar Akaval and Periya Yanai Vinayakar lifted Avvai in His Thumbikkai and transported her to Kailasam before Sundarar in Vellai Yanai and Seraman Perumal Nayanar in Kudirai. This is also the city ruled by Meiporul Nayanar and the birthplace of Rajaraja Chola. Sivananda Valli and Viratteswarar. Sang by Appar and Sambandar. Photos Babu Sivacharyar 98426 23020, Ramesh Sivacharyar 94862 80030

Tirukovalur Divya Desam is in the centre of west town (Melaiyur). This is the place where Poigai Azwar, Bhoothath Azvar, Pey Azwar saw the Lord and started singing Divya Prabandar, one of two Nadu Nadu Divya Desam. There is huge Rajagopuram. Trivikarama Swamy and Dehaleesar are unimaginably beautiful.

Photos

Tiruvannamalai is 35km from Tirukovalur, road is good. Started from Tirukovalur at 10-45, reached Tiruvannamalai at 1130. The site has temple layout, would reccommend taking a print out.

Annamalaiyai ariyaar yaar? Apitakuchamba and Arunachaleswarar (Unnamulai and Annamalai) are showering worshippers with love and affectiion, truly moving experience. Photos. Ramesh Sivacharyar 94432 43225, 04175 223277.